Victorian Pleat

Victorian French Pleat

Equipment

• Wrap for model
• Hairbrush
• Section Clips
• Tail comb
• Backcombing brush
• Curling tongs
• Hair pins
• Geisha pins
• Hair spray

Method

1. Firstly put a wrap on your model and make sure he/she is comfortable

2. Next, using a hairbrush, brush all of the knots out starting from the ends of the hair

3. With the tail comb create a middle or side parting depending on your look and section off the hair in front of the ears.

4. Split the back section into 3 parts - 2 sides and 1 middle.  Start off with the middle section and use your tail comb to make clean sections ready to tong.  Make sure you over direct the tongs to give extra lift.  You also need to set your curls out in a brickwork pattern.  I also kept 2 extra side parts out to create the curls that hang down.

5. When tonging the hair - roll the hair around the barrel and roll the barrel towards your model.  Gently release the curl making sure you keep it in a barrel shape and pin it to the head.  Repeat this for the whole middle section

6. Next you need to tong both side sections.  You need to tong these sections in the direction you want them to go.  For example - for the left section, roll the hair around the tong towards the model.  Repeat this for both sections of the hair and secure with pins.

7. Now you need to start on the front section of your models head.  I chose to not do a parting as i find this more striking.  However, you still need to tong the hair in the direction you would like it to go and really emphasis the over directing.  You then need to let all of the curls cool.

8. Take out the back middle section and right side section of curls and brush them through.  Back comb slightly to prepare for padding.  Criss cross hair pins down the middle of the section.

9. Bring the hair back over itself and roll around your hand. Use a geisha pin to keep the hair in place.

10. Take the last back section (left) and brush out all the curls. Then add that section on top of the original roll and use one pin to hold it in place.

11. Now onto the top section. Take out all of the curls and brush through. I then added some large padding to create a more Victorian look and wrapped the hair around it.  I used different sized pins to secure this.  It took me a few times to get this the way I wanted.


12. Lastly, use hairspray to finish the look.  

Ageing Make-Up

Ageing Make-Up

Equipment

• Foundation palette
• Concealer palette
• Supracolour palette
• Different sized brushes
• Wrinkle Stipple
• Powder

Method

1. Firstly, make sure you moisturise the skin thoroughly as you don't want any unwanted dry patches, even if this means spending 10 minutes working it into the skin.

2. Next you need to apply an even base over the whole face using the foundation palette and a foundation brush.  Then, use a blending brush to ensure all of the foundation has blended nicely into the skin.  I also then briefly touched up any unwanted blemishes using some concealer.

3. Make sure you use a small pointy brush to start with ageing.  Use a darker colour from the concealer palette to create shadows in the creases on the face.  You then need to ensure you apply a lighter colour to highlight under the shadow.  This gives the illusion of depth.  Using your clean fingers can also help to blend.

4. Be sure to make up right to the hair line and eyelashes.  The main points you need to add wrinkles on the face to are; crows feet, forehead, cheeks and laughter lines.

5. Lastly, ask your model to screw up their lips and dab some dark and light concealer to create wrinkled lips.

6. Finish with some powder to set the look.

Wrinkle Stipple

Wrinkle stipple is similar to latex.  It works great in the outer corners of the eye to really emphasis the crows feet.  Apply a small amount to the required area and dry with a hair dryer - making sure the heat is cool.  Whilst drying, pinch the area to create more wrinkles.

Natural base

Finding the perfect foundation base

Equipment

•    Kryolan Foundation palette


•    Mate Primer

•    Dermacolour


•    Full brush kit 


•    Spatulas


Method

1. Using a spatula, scrap out some foundation that you think could be the correct colour of the skin of your model.  Mix this in with the primer.  If you think it is the correct colour try it on the jaw so you can see if it would blend in with the neck.  If you rub it in and it practically disappears  - the colour is right and you can apply this to the whole face.  If not, add lighter or darker foundation and keep trying it on the skin until the desired colour is found.


2. Next, using a foundation brush apply the foundation starting in the middle by the nose and work your way out.
  Be sure to keep an even coverage over the whole face.  This will make the blending process easier.

3.  After applying this to the whole face use a blending brush to buff the foundation into the skin.  This removes all the brush strokes made from the foundation brush and gives an all round nice finish.  It also helps the skin look less cakey and piled on with make-up.

4.  Apply some loose translucent powder with a powder brush or puff. 

5.  Lastly, to give the face some shape I applied some Illamasqua blusher in TREMBLE down the cheekbones.  This also gives the face a bit of colour and looks less flat.

French Pleat - Decaying

French Pleat  - Decaying

 

 



I created this hairstyle by just simply backcombing the front section of hair until it starts to look slightly frizzy.  I did this using some hairspray and a Head Jog backcombing brush.

 

I feel the backcoming creates volume as well as mess which to me says decaying.  This reminds me of a crows nest where all the twigs and branches stick out and generally looks untidy.  I wanted to create something that looked like it had been worn for years without many touch ups.

French Pleat - Passionate

French Pleat - Passionate

 



 

 

 

To create this hairstyle, I just neatly sectioned off 2 side parts out of the front section and left them out until I had completed the rest of the look.  I used my curling wand to curl the sections towards the face.

 

I feel these curls soften the hairstyle and gives it character.  When I think of passionate hair, I think of soft cute curls that could catch a male's attention.  The curls add something different to the hairstyle rather than all of the hair being up off the face.



French Pleat - Cruel

French Pleat - Cruel

Equipment

• Wrap for model
• Hairbrush
• Section Clips
• Tail comb
• Backcombing brush
• Curling tongs
• Hair pins
• Geisha pins
• Hair spray

Method

1. Firstly put a wrap on your model and make sure he/she is comfortable

2. Next, using a hairbrush, brush all of the knots out starting from the ends of the hair

3. With the tail comb create a middle or side parting depending on your look and section off the hair in front of the ears.

4. Split the back section into 3 parts - 2 sides and 1 middle.  Start off with the middle section and use your tail comb to make clean sections ready to tong.  Make sure you over direct the tongs to give extra lift.  You also need to set your curls out in a brickwork pattern.

 

5. When tonging the hair - roll the hair around the barrel and roll the barrel towards your model.  Gently release the curl making sure you keep it in a barrel shape and pin it to the head.  Repeat this for the whole middle section

6. Next you need to tong both side sections.  You need to tong these sections in the direction you want them to go.  For example - for the left section, roll the hair around the tong towards the model.  Repeat this for both sections of the hair and secure with pins.

 

7. Now you need to start on the front section of your models head.  I chose to not do a parting as i find this more striking.  However, you still need to tong the hair in the direction you would like it to go and really emphasis the over directing.  You then need to let all of the curls cool.

8. Take out the back middle section and right side section of curls and brush them through.  Back comb slightly to prepare for padding.  Criss cross hair pins down the middle of the section.

 

9. Bring the hair back over itself and roll around your hand. Use a geisha pin to keep the hair in place.

 

10. Take the last back section (left) and brush out all the curls. Then add that section on top of the original roll and use one pin to hold it in place.

 

11. Now onto the top section. Take out all of the curls and brush through. Then neatly bring the hair back and pin in place. Blend the ends of the hair into the original roll. 


12. Lastly, use hairspray to finish the look.